Yes, it is $50, including UPS Insured Ground shipping, to socket your ECU. I try to turn them around in 1 day, even the same day if possible. Ship the ECU to:
8941 SE Duncan St
Hobe Sound, FL 33455
You can either send a check/Money Order with the ECU, or send a $50 Paypal to email@example.com
Most of you are probably aware of a large flaw in the diagnostic port: the Karman value has a maximum value of 1606 Hz. But, on request I can now make the logged value be half of the real value, or even 1/4 the MAS Hz! Most versions of MMcD and Pocketlogger have a menu option to automatically double it for you! This means that you can now log up to 3212 Hz, or even 6424 Hz!
The guys on the DSM-ECU Group have come up with a relatively safe way to deal with "true" phantom knock. We tell the ECU to just ignore all knock when you are NOT under boost! I have many satisfied customers who formerly had horrible PK issues. Just mention it in the "Comments" box if you need it.
The DSMLink is a wonderful product, but there are several important differences:
1) The most important difference is that the DSMLink allows the user to tune and change many of the ECU variables on a laptop computer, whereas my chips are fixed at the values determined for your setup and burned into the chip by me. Changes to my chips, like an injector upgrade, require $20 for an update to the chip, and the later return of your old chip, as cheaply as possible. The DSMLink is especially suitable for DSMers who frequently change fuels, or race on weekends, since you can quickly swap maps or retune at the track. My chips are designed for ONE specific octane fuel, unless you have the "dual-image" version which can allow you to swap to extra AFR or timing maps.
2) The DSMLink v2 comes with STOCK timing and openloop AFR maps, whereas my chips are fully customizable to whatever octane fuel you run, your compression ratio, or stroke. The DSMLink requires the user to tune the vehicle using a laptop interface, to lean the AFR or remove timing for example, whereas my chips have optimized maps already in them, which get you up and running much faster, especially for guys with daily drivers, or who don't want to have to learn to tune.
3) Most of my 1G chips feature expanded timing and openloop AFR maps. The 1G factory maps topped out at ~15psi of boost. So, when you turn up the boost, an ECU with a stock or DSMLink chip v2 is still trying to use timing advance intended for much less boost, limiting the amount of boost you can run because of knock issues. My chips will continue to adjust the timing as high as 24 or more psi of boost. The DSMLink v2 tries to get beyond this limitation by allowing the user to add or subtract timing at each rpm increment. However, any changes made to that rpm become effective at ALL load levels. So, removing timing on the top map also can cause the car to become less responsive at lower boost levels, effecting drivability. On the other hand, my chips can be customized to ONLY effect the timing or AFR at the boost levels that you desire, leaving the lower load maps untouched, maintaining better driveability. PLEASE NOTE: The DSMLink v3 has finally broken through this limitation, has expanded map range, and allows the user to edit individual map points.
4) The DSMLink includes a built-in logger, to aid you in tuning, including the ability to log the AFR from a wideband O2. My chips require an aftermarket logging program, such as Pocketlogger, TMOLogger, or MMcD. Pocketlogger Website (a Palm-based logger) TMO Logger 16.02 (a Windows/notebook-based logger) MMcD v1.8g (a Palm-based logger)
The long and the short of it: The DSMLink is a great, mature product which has helped hundreds of DSMers make lots of power. But, the provided maps are for a stock DSM and need to be tuned to adjust for changes you have made, like stroking or a higher compression ratio. Many guys don't know where to even begin to compensate for such changes, or don't want to hurt their daily driveability, so they find that the maps in my chips are "close enough" to make a LOT of extra power, without tuning or the use of piggybacks. If you are the kind of guy that enjoys tinkering with your tune, or need to change tuning for weekend racing, or "need" every last HP out of your setup that you can get, do yourself a favor and try the DSMLink.
TMO website by Todd Day
Todd greatly helped the DSM cause by introducing his chips in ~1998, but they have not been LEGALLY produced for several years now. There are several important differences:
1) The TMO chips always had STOCK timing and openloop AFR maps, whereas my chips are fully customizable to whatever octane fuel you run, your compression ratio, or stroke. These leaner maps will make more power, and the improved timing can GREATLY increase the amount of boost you are able to run on pumpgas. Most of my 1G chips feature expanded timing and openloop AFR maps. The factory maps topped out at ~15psi of boost. So, when you turn up the boost, an ECU with a stock or TMO chip is still trying to use timing advance intended for much less boost, limiting the amount of boost you can run because of knock issues. My chips will continue to adjust the timing as high as 24 or more psi of boost.
2) The TMO chips offered 5 different gauge selections, normally battery voltage, O2 voltage, timing advance, injector duty cycle, and "octane value". Instead, I have decided to offer just ONE gauge, usually knocksum, which I feel is the most essential ECU value to watch when tuning.
3) The TMO chips were "scrambled", such that their code was very hard to compare to the stock code, to discourage pirating. My chips are based on the stock E931 (1991/92 DSM) or E943 (GVR-4) code, so anyone can make changes to the chips later.
4) One feature Todd didn't offer was removal of the airflow cap. Only recently discovered, the 1G ECU caps the airflow at a value that roughly equated to 450 HP. When the ECU sees any amount of airflow beyond that, it substitutes a fixed, maximum value for the real amount of airflow, which will cause your injector pulsewidth to plateau, which will lean you out. My chips always remove this cap.
5) The TMO chips never corrected for larger injector sizes (other than 2 or 3 copies of his special TMO3 chip prototypes). So, you always had to still use an AFC or VPC to remove the extra airflow when running larger injectors, which causes more knock issues from being on the wrong maps. My chips can be ordered to exactly match the injector flow, injector deadtime, and base fuel pressure that you run.
6) As I said above, TMO chips are no longer made. So, when you buy a TMO chip off eBay there is a VERY high likelyhood you are putting money in some pirate's pocket, not Todd Day's.
FIC Flowmatched injectors are also matched to your chip! This means, tuning will be MUCH easier! ALL FIC INJECTORS ARE SUPPLIED WITH NEW VITON®* SEALS UPPER & LOWER A $25 VALUE AT NO EXTRA CHARGE!
FIC is also now offering Delphi injectors that have been modified for 1050cc or 1150cc flow!
This is the spray pattern of a stock 950cc Delphi injector:
Now, this is the spray pattern after it has been modified to 1050cc or 1150cc:
Better atomization means more even burning in the combustion chamber, which means more power and better economy!
New FIC BlueMax high flow injectors! These injectors do NOT have the driveability issues of the Bosch 1600's when running on gas. If you want to be able to run both premium gas and E85, or just want a really good E85 injector, check out the new BlueMax!
1. All values in stock for fast delivery!
2. I can match your new chip to the EXACT flow that your injectors have been flowtested, for a closer tune!
3. Free Priority Mail insured shipping when you are buying a chip or an upgrade!
The knock gauge mod converts the useless factory boost gauge into a gauge that registers the ECU Knocksum, a value from 0-43 that corresponds with how loud and how long in duration the ECU hears knocking from the knock sensor. Not only can the knock destroy your engine, but for every 3 knocksum the ECU will pull almost 1* of timing advance, killing your power. You really don't want to see more than 1-2 knock on the guage. To read knock on your car's gauge, use this chart:
1G DSM: Gauge should rest on the first tick up from the bottom, NOT the bottom mark, and each tick above that is 5 knocksum.
2G DSM: Gauge should rest on the first tick up from the bottom, NOT the bottom mark, and each tick above that is 7 knocksum.
GVR-4: Each LED on the knock gauge is 5 knocksum.
NLTS is No-Lift-to-Shift, another term for flat-shifting, where you keep the gas pedal flat to the floor between gears. This mod requires a clutchwire installation, so the ECU can see when you have the clutch pushed in. When activated, the ECU lowers the rev limiter to ~6000 rpm. This not only keeps the turbo spooled up between shifts, but it also lines the rpm's up closer for the upshift, making it easier for the transmission to synchronize the gears. Used mainly for racing, NLTS can knock .25 second off your 1/4 mile times.
PLEASE NOTE: If you select NLTS, you MUST install the included clutchwire for BOTH NLTS and the regular stutterbox/launch rev limiter to work. If you ONLY select the stutterbox launch, without NLTS, you don't need a clutchwire. The ECU uses the speed sensor instead to decide whether to use the MAIN rev limiter or the stutterbox.
When you first turn the ignition key ON, tap the gas pedal while watching the factory boost gauge. Each higher step on the gauge represents a higher stutterbox rpm. Once you have selected the rpm you want, start the car, and the ECU will remember the rpm you selected next time.
PLEASE NOTE: The ECU uses the idle position switch on the throttlebody to see if you are tapping the gas pedal. If the needle doesn't move when you tap the gas, that means that your IPS is either bad, disconnected, or misadjusted. I find this most often on 2G cars with a 6-bolt conversion. On a 1G car, the most often causes are either the single spade terminal falling off the Idle Position Switch on the left rear of the throttlebody, or a miswiring issue caused by using the wrong (1990 vs 1991+) ECU. 2G thread 2G troubleshooting
Don't let the term "Stage" confuse you. All my chips come with the same custom maps and racing features. The main thing that distinguishes a Stage 2 chip from a Stage 3 chip is the MAS or injector compensation. So, if you have upgraded either the MAS or the injectors on your car, you really want/need the Stage 3 chip. Injector and MAS compensation are the features most guys need the most, as it will allow you to stop removing so much airflow signal from the ECU with a piggyback fuel system, so the ECU is using the proper AFR and timing maps. Being on the wrong maps is most often the source of bad knock issues on pumpgas.
An EPROM-type ECU will have an "E" in the bottom righthand corner of the lid label, as shown on this DSMLink page: DSMLink Wiki
But, the only real way to tell is to open the ECU and look inside, as lots of things have changed on these cars in 10-20 years. Todd Day wrote a nice page on how to remove the 1G ECU. The 2G ECU is in the same location, but GVR-4 ECU's are behind the passenger's side kick panel, to the right of the glove box. TMO Directions
You can NEVER go by just the ECU part number, as Mitsubishi made EPROM and NON-EPROM versions of practically every part number ECU.