Q: What is the stage 2 Chip?
A: All the modifications from stage 1 including a 2-step or 3-step stutter box (Launch/shift RPM) and A/C cut out.
Q: What is a 2-step Stutter box?
A: The 2-step rev limiter is based on the car's speed sensor. If the car is NOT moving, you get the lower rev limiter. Once the car is moving, the ECU uses the standard, higher rev limiter. This requires no modifications to the car, as the ECU already has access to the speed sensor input. www.technomotive.com for instructions to install the clutch wire mod
Q: What is a 3-step Stutter box?
A: The 3-step gives you 3 different rev limits, depending upon the position of the clutch pedal, and whether or not the car is moving. If the clutch is NOT pushed in, you will always get the standard, highest rev limit. If the car is NOT moving when the clutch is pushed in, you will get the lowest, launch rpm, to build boost off the line. Once the car is moving, and the clutch is pushed in, you get a third rev limit, sometimes called the "no-lift-to-shift" or "flat-shifting" rev limiter. This rev limit allows you to keep the gas pedal pressed to the floor in between shifts, so the turbo stays spooled. The use of this feature is recommended ONLY for guys with REALLY good transmissions. But, PLEASE NOTE that even if you order this feature (6000 rpm recommended) you do NOT have to use it. The car will shift and run normally, as long as you do not keep the gas pedal flat to the floor between shifts. ALSO NOTE: The 3-step requires a functioning clutch switch, and wiring modifications to the switch and ECU harness. www.technomotive.com for instructions to install the clutch wire mod
Q: What if I don't have the lower, starter interface switch? What if I have an A/T car? What if I want to use the upper, cruise control switch instead?
A: Some people prefer the upper, cruise control switch, and that is fine. Just note it in the "Comments" box on your order, and I will change the logic of the switch operation so that it works with the cruise switch. Of course, A/T cars have no use for either the NLTS or stutterbox, and can build boost nicely at the line without it. So, if you have an A/T car, or do not wish to have the stutterbox or NLTS option, please note that in the "Comments" box on your order form.
Q: What if I have a remote starter, turbo timer, or alarm system, and have the starter interface clutchswitch disconnected?
A: If you have unplugged the clutchswitch, you will need to plug it back in for proper stutterbox and NLTS operation. But, all you have to do is simply cut the green/red striped wire (on DSM's), run a wire (no diode necessary) from the end that still connects to the clutchswitch to pin #104 of the ECU, and do NOT connect the other end of the green/red wire to anything. This will allow the ECU to see the proper clutchswitch voltages, but still allow the car to be started without the clutch being pushed in.
Q: What is Shift (No-Lift-to-Shift) RPM? What NLTS rpm should I choose?
A: Launch rpm is the rev limit you get when the car is NOT moving, and the clutch is pushed in. Shift rpm is the rev limiter when the car IS moving, and the clutch is pushed in, for "flat-shifting", or "no-lift-to-shift". But, you had better have a GOOD transmission to do just that. The most common, and recommended rpm for the NLTS is 6000 rpm. This seems to set you up nicely for the upshift. AGAIN, please remember though, the car will shift normally if you do NOT hold the gas pedal to the floor, so don't be afraid of this option. You don't even know you have the NLTS or stutterbox if you drive normally. How often do you EVER hold the gas pedal to the floor when you shift or launch? Thats the ONLY time you'll know you have those features.
Q: What is Air Conditioning cut out?
A: This feature turns off the A/C compressor to prevent it from blowing up past 5000 rpm. Once the rpm's have been below 5000 for several seconds, the compressor will restart.
