Q: What is the Stage 1 chip?
A: Stage one chip includes a one-time adjustment of the RPM redline, elimination of Fuel Cut, Octane value reset, change the factory boost gauge to either a knock sum gauge or O2 gauge, airflow cap removal, 2X Karman so you can log up to 3212 Hz, Phantom Knock Code if requested, and the check engine light flashing as a shift light.
Q: What MAIN rev limit should I choose? Should I raise my REV limit? Is it safe?
A: The factory rev limit is 7500 rpm, which suffices for many people. However, most people ask for a 7800 or 8000 rev limit. Unless you have done some SERIOUS mods, our cars do not pull much past 7000 rpm, so be realistic in your choice. You are responsible to know what is safe and isn't safe for your car's capability. www.tmo.com for 'no-limit' modification for more information.
Q: What is Fuel Cut?
A: The Electronic Control Unit (E.C.U) will stop fuel and spark from the spark plugs if the corrected airflow exceeds a present limit. This limit can be raised by a certain percentage or eliminated.
Q: What is Octane Value Reset?
A: The "octane value" is a term coined by Todd Day to refer to the memory address that is used as a long-term timing trim. If the ECU hears a moderate amount of knock for a long time, or high counts of knock for a shorter amount of time, it will keep reducing the value in this memory address. Normally set at 255 (FULL), it will keep getting reduced as long as it hears knock. This could be due to a bad tank of gas, or perhaps running high boost than you are tuned for. But, even if you fix the problem, by filling back up with good premium fuel, or lowering boost, the "octane value" can take several hundred miles to work its way back up to "FULL" value again. This feature of my chips resets the "octane value" to "FULL" every time you start the car! However, just as a warning, since you are removing this safeguard that the ECU uses to protect your engine, it is YOUR responsibility to monitor your knock sum!
Q: The boost gauge indicator can be changed to what other function(s)?
A: Let's face it; the factory boost gauge is pretty useless! It only looks at the amount of corrected airflow, and takes a guess at what the boost is! By now, you should have purchased a proper boost gauge, so let's do something useful with the old boost gauge (you can choose ONLY one): Knock sum - On DSM's, the gauge will normally rest on the "-7", for 0 knock sum. It will rise 5 knock sum per division on the gauge, so "0"=5 knock sum, "+7"=10 knock sum, and "+14"=15 or more knock sum. On GVR-4's, the knock sum is displayed as 5 knock sum per LED. O2 - In this mode, the gauge will give you a quick indication of whether you are in closed-loop or open-loop operation. The center of the gauge ("0") is roughly .50 volts, and the needle should swing back and forth around this point during normal closed-loop operation. The highest mark on the gauge represents approximately .90 volts. Or, if you choose, the boost gauge can be left alone, it's up to you.
